Barcelona
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
My Neighborhood (Portaforissa)
My neighborhood is in the Gothic Quarter (Barri Gotic) which is the oldest part of the city of Barcelona. This is where the first Roman settlement was, and was the main part of the city until the expansion in the middle of the nineteenth century. The gothic quarter is known for its narrow, winding streets, and was the center of all trade and business in Barcelona until the city expanded due to urban sprawl. The street I live on (Portaforissa) literally translates to 'Iron Door' because at the end of the street was a giant iron door that would be closed each night to keep the inhabitants safe from an unwanted attack or from a potentially diseased stranger who had not stayed a month in quarantine outside of the city walls to make sure he was safe to enter. Each night all entrances to the city would be closed, except for one the Porta de Angels, which was always left open in case the King needed to make an emergency entrance or exit to the city. My apartment is only about 30 meters from La Rambla, one of the most well known streets in all of Spain. This is a very touristy area and is always extremely crowded with foreigners, street venders, and pickpockets. Living in La Rambla is exciting because there is always something going on, but sometimes I grow tired of the noise, and the excessive crowds always milling about doing their shopping, and wonder what it is like to live in X'iample in a quiet apartment. I also have to remind myself that my roommates and I have fantastic location to the beach, nightlife, great restaurants, and most importantly to CEA globalcampus. I shop for groceries at a small market by my apartment, and also at a supermarket for harder to find items, but when I am looking to buy fresh fish, fresh fruit and vegetables or some interesting meat or succulent fruit juices I always head to the Boqueria Market. This is a market just on the other side of La Rambla from me, and dates back to the very beginning of the 18th century. At the back side of the market is my local library, the Biblioteca Sant Pau Sant Creu de Barcelona, a library with roots which are also a couple hundred years old. This massive library has beautiful architecture and houses thousands of books. Here people can get on the computer, check out cds, magazines, or just come and hang out in the courtyard which is beautiful and has some nicely planted trees. While I would have liked to live in a more peaceful neighborhood during my stay in Barcelona, I can honestly say that out of the entire CEA group, my roommates and I have by far the best location out of any students and for that I am thankful. This has been one crazy month and there is no detail I will ever forget from this fantastic trip.
Medieval Barcelona
Walking through the Gothic Quarter in Barcelona is unlike anything I have ever seen or done at any point in my life. The architecture, the sights, even just the way that the buildings fit together in those narrow streets, or the random sculptures or gargoyles that are on display. To be able to walk down streets that have had men walking on them for two thousand years before me is a feeling unlike any I have ever known in America, especially since San Francisco is only a century and a half old. Walking through the Jewish quarter and seeing the sights, the stars of david carved into the walls, the streets called 'Call' to mark the Jewish part of the city, and the old synagogue that was destroyed during the Inquisition. To walk down the city streets where the guilds were was equally fascinating. To think that the concept of what one may see as a 'union' today existed back then is so impressive. Entire streets devoted to craftsmen making swords, or mirrors, areas where shepherds would bring their flock to sell the wool. Other guilds included silversmiths, and the exchange market where the price of goods would be determined. Fishermen and sailors would disembark and head to the exchange market where they would settle on the price of a pound of fish, and would return with their goods to sell afterwards. This banking system has existed in Barcelona for close to 800 years.
Camp Nou
Definitely one of the highlights of the entire trip, the trip to the FC Barcelona stadium! What an impressive building, with a huge arena that can sit about 89 thousand fans, or if standing room were allowed could fit over 110 thousand fans. That number of fans attending an American sports match is practically unheard of for games outside of the Superbowl. Our instructor Marcos walked us through a large room full of glass cases housing hundreds of trophies that FCB has won since its formation in 1899 by Hans Gamper. We also learned of the other sports teams that FCB has, including a basketball team, a rollerhockey team, and a handball team. The stadium was so giant, and with the club's motto 'Mes que un club' lettered on the seats it was easy to imagine the place packed with wild fans twice a week to watch their team play. I also learned that the FCB captain's armband is in the colors of the Catalan flag, a symbol of their independence that had been stifled under Franco's dictatorship. There was an interactive board in the museum part of the stadium which was very high tech, like a touch screen that would bring up different photos and descriptions of what was going on at that time with the club, or the players. We were even allowed to view the stadium's chapel, and the visiting team's locker rooms which were very nice, but I am sure not as nice as the Barcelona lockers. Definitely one of the better things I was able to visit this trip to Barcelona and it was so nice that it was a field trip so we had already paid the admission ticket fee in the cost of the program.
Boat Cruises
Since being in Barcelona I have had the good luck to take two boat cruises in the Mediterranean. The first was a Catamaran Jazz cruise through CEA which was very nice, and had live jazz music. This cruise was in the late afternoon and we were out on the water for a little over an hour before coming back to the dock. It was nice to lay out on a catamaran and look into the water, and I even managed to spot some jellyfish. I do have to say that the second cruise was by far much better. My roommates and our girls all pitched in and had a local Barcelonan take us out on his sailboat for four hours last night. This was such a great experience to be sailing out on the mediterranean like they have been doing for thousands of years and our captain, a middle-aged former economist named Francisco, was quite the host, providing us with some great entertainment at his broken english and his great selection of 1980s American music. To be sailing out on the water at night was fantastic, with a great view of the Barcelona coast lit up, and the casinos and water tower providing a great background to compliment the tower of Montjuic on the skyline. We also lucked out and had a great clear night with a fantastic view of the moon. Overall the cruise was quite romantic and a great hit among us all.
Pamplona and Running with the Bulls!
When my group of friends and I decided to take a trip to Pamplona for the running of the bulls, I will admit I had no idea what I was getting myself into. On a bus ride that should have taken 8 hours but instead took 11, we got to know each other pretty well, and thought nothing of arriving in Zarauz, not Pamplona where we all expected to be staying. After being greeted by a group of rowdy Australians who were our travel guides and getting a 30 min nap in, we set out for Pamplona and the running of the bulls. I will never admit that I was too afraid to run with the bulls, but one of us had to make sure the girls were safe in a strange Spanish city filled with crazed drunken Spaniards. After watching my friends make fools out of themselves (from the arena seating) it was back on the bus to Zarauz and off to one of the most beautiful and amazing beaches I have ever had the pleasure to be at. We spent the afternoon playing and swimming in the ocean and admiring the gorgeous scenery around us. What was boggling was the fact the Spaniards simply took their surroundings for granted, but those lucky locals don't realize just how lucky they are. Returning from the beach meant a cookout with the Auzzies and lots and lots of sangria (5euro all you can drink!) and another sleepless night of partying before returning once again by bus into Pamplona, but this time we were all too exhausted or drunk to run. Sleeping in a large clump on the floor of the Pamplona bus station probably wasn't our smartest idea, but at the moment was a necessity, as we boarded the bus back to Barcelona none of us had any idea what we were in store for next. The way I see it, if you are a bus driver, you really only have two duties the first being knowing where you are going and how to get there, and the second being remembering to put gas in the tank. Well our driver had already showed his incompetency by adding 3 extra hours to our trip on they way there, but he had to go and run out of gas on the freeway; we were stranded for an hour and a half while the local police ran to the gas station and came to fill up the tank. Fortunately, we made it back to Barcelona with just two hours to spare before the Spain-Holland final of the World Cup and were able to celebrate with Spaniards, at least those who were rooting for Spain, before we all crashed from a long weekend of drinking and running on no sleep. I can honestly say that the first thing I did at CEA that next monday morning was have Monica Rodriguez write down the name of that little beach town because I made a promise to myself to return there before I die. I recommend you do the same.
Trip to the Bullring
Here is a picture from our visit to the Plaza de Torros
As another cultural activity, our sports class took a trip to a bullring. This is the only still active bullring in Barcelona, and if the liberal younger generation can help it, this magnificent piece of Spanish history and culture will soon be turned into a museum. At the bullring we first saw the museum of bullfighting, including many dated photos of long-dead bulls and matadors, including some stuffed bulls heads. In order to earn points in a bullfight, a talented matador will sever each of the bulls ears, and if he is very good, will also sever the tail of the bull while it is still living. We also were lucky enough to meet four bulls who will be fighting for their lives on Sunday, and our guide let us know that the bull doesn't always die, if the crowd feels the bull has put up a good showing, they will let it live, much like a Roman gladiator. I do doubt that many bulls die from old age however. We saw the gradual progression in matador outfits from the eighteenth century until present day, and the torero can cost as much as eighteen thousand euros, pretty expensive for something that may get a blood stain on it or be gored by a bull. The inside of the arena has fantastic acoustics, so the matador does not need to be hooked up to a microphone. Many Spaniards are against bullfighting, and favor soccer in its place, but one can not overlook the historical and cultural significance bullfighting has had on Spanish culture. When Ernest Hemingway was living in Spain writing novels, he incessantly ranted about how beautiful the Spanish culture was and wrote extensively on bullfights. Regardless of how one may feel, bullfighting has had an enormous impact on Spanish culture and should be acknowledged for that.
Beaches in Barcelona!
Interestingly, Barcelona has not always had such nice beaches. Before coming to Spain and learning about the 1992 Olympics here, I would have just thought Barcelona, being a coastal Mediterranean city would have a nice beach, man was I wrong. The beaches in Barcelona are great, with nice fine sand that is pretty clean and a very enjoyable general atmosphere. Unlike other countries, these beaches are public, and there is no need to rent chairs or tents like the case may be in Italy or other coastal countries. People at the beach tend to be friendly, while there are club promoters walking around hyping up their nightlife or asian women with oil offering cheap massages. You can even find immigrants with coolers (illegally) selling beers to tourists. The attitude towards toplessness and nudity at the beach is completely different than in the United States. When women are sunbathing with their breasts exposed, it just seems like a very natural thing, like 'this is who I am and this is my body' not a sexual thing. The beaches in Barcelona haven't always been this nice. Prior to the 1992 Olympics, the Barcelona beaches were run down, dirty and not even geologically nice. So when the Olympic committee announced in 1986 that Barcelona was to host the Olympics in '92, construction began to build up this forgotten part of the city in the Port Olympic area. Personally, I'd have to say they did a great job.
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